Solaro: a fabric designed for light, movement, and presence

04/05/2026

At the height of the British Empire, when soldiers were stationed in the world’s hottest colonies, protecting them from the searing sun became a matter of necessity.

It was during this time, in the early 1900s, that Anglo-Italian doctor Louis Westenra Sambon, a specialist in tropical diseases, developed a fabric that would later become an icon of elegance: Solaro.

His idea was simple yet ingenious. To shield against harmful UV rays, Sambon created a wool fabric woven with two contrasting yarns—beige on the outside, red on the inside. The result was a material with a distinctive iridescence, shifting subtly between green and bronze depending on the light.

Originally designed for technical and military use, Solaro immediately stood out not only for its functionality, but for its visual character.

This is exactly why, at this time of year, I often come back to Solaro.

The fabric was patented by Smith Woollens, a British company that still holds the rights today. After World War II, Italian tailors, facing material shortages, began repurposing military surplus Solaro for lightweight suits, discovering its remarkable breathability and resilience.

By the 1950s and ’60s, Solaro had become a natural choice for men who moved frequently—businessmen, travellers, individuals used to long days and changing environments. It was embraced by figures such as Gianni Agnelli and Marcello Mastroianni, becoming a symbol of understated sophistication.

Today, Solaro is particularly suited to spring and summer garments, often unlined or half-lined to enhance airflow and comfort.

I often work with it for clients who need a jacket or suit that can move naturally between meetings, travel, and long days, without ever losing presence.

Solaro is more than a fabric.
It is a way of entering the season with the right balance between function and presence.